By Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Is there a more venerated New York sandwich than the bodega egg-on-a-roll, that whole-is-greater-than-the-sum-of-its-parts marvel and bedrock of urban culinary life? As you might expect with something so vital to the city’s lifeblood, the sandwich has become inspiration for countless chefs. And whether or not you consider tinkering with the original form a criminal act, as many do, you can’t deny that the best interpretations add something delectable to the category — be it Korean-spiced mayo, Jewish-style smoked meat, North African tomato sauce, or boutique-butcher beef fat. The common denominator: love and respect for the classic. Here are the 20 absolute best new-wave models.

1. Upland’s Roasted Porchetta + Egg Sandwich 345 Park Ave. S., entrance on 26th St.; 212-686-1006

Two of the greatest sandwiches of all time meet with predictably stellar results. The porchetta has an ideal ratio of crisp crackling to succulent meat; the egg is fried to a T. There’s a smattering of the pickled Basque peppers called guindilla for zip, and fries on the side. Lunch and brunch only.